Ethical animal care: dispelling myths
At Paws in Trusted Hands, we believe every animal deserves the best care. This page is dedicated to sharing crucial insights and correct information to help you provide a happy and healthy life for your beloved pets. Join us as we uncover the truth behind common misconceptions.
Choosing the Right Hamster
The most common pet hamsters are:
- Syrian Hamster — largest species; must always live alone.
- Winter White Dwarf Hamster
- Campbell's Dwarf Hamster
- Roborovski Hamster — smallest and fastest.
All pet hamsters should be housed individually.
Minimum Cage Requirements
A proper enclosure is the foundation of hamster welfare.
Floor Space
Recommended minimums:
Hamster TypeBare MinimumBetterSyrian100 cm × 50 cm (5,000 cm²)120 cm × 60 cm+Dwarf species100 cm × 50 cmLarger whenever possible
More floor space is almost always beneficial.
Cage Types That Work Well
- Large glass aquarium/tank
- Front-opening terrarium
- Large DIY bin cage
- Large wooden enclosure designed for hamsters
Avoid
- Tiny starter cages
- Habitrail-style tube systems
- Multi-level cages that compensate for insufficient floor space
- Wire cages with inadequate floor area
Hamsters use horizontal territory much more than vertical climbing space.
Bedding: One of the Most Important Parts
Hamsters are natural burrowers.
Depth
Provide:
- Minimum: 20 cm (8 inches)
- Better: 25–40 cm (10–16 inches)
Many hamster keepers aim for one-third to one-half of the enclosure filled with deep bedding.
Safe Bedding
- Unscented paper bedding
- Aspen shavings
- Hemp bedding
- Mixtures of the above
Avoid
- Cedar bedding
- Pine bedding that is not kiln-dried
- Scented bedding
- Cotton wool/fluff nesting products
Cotton fluff can wrap around limbs and cause injuries.
The Wheel
A wheel is essential, not optional.
Minimum Wheel Sizes
HamsterWheel DiameterSyrian28–33 cm (11–13 in)Dwarf20–25 cm (8–10 in)
The hamster's back should remain straight while running.
Wheel Type
Use:
- Solid running surface
- Cork, plastic, or wood
Avoid:
- Mesh wheels
- Wire rung wheels
These can injure feet and legs.
Sand Bath
Most hamsters love sand baths and use them for grooming.
Use
- Reptile sand with no added calcium
- Children's play sand that has been cleaned and baked
Avoid
- Dust baths
- Chinchilla dust
Dust can contribute to respiratory problems.
A large sand area is especially appreciated by dwarf hamsters.
Hides and Shelter
Hamsters need multiple safe hiding places.
A good setup includes:
- Multi-chamber hide
- At least 2–4 additional hides
- Cork logs
- Tunnels
- Wooden houses
A multi-chamber hide mimics underground burrow rooms.
Enrichment and Natural Behaviors
Your enclosure should allow:
Digging
Deep bedding for burrows.
Foraging
Instead of always using a bowl:
- Scatter feed around the enclosure.
- Hide food in bedding.
- Use puzzle feeders occasionally.
Climbing (Limited)
Hamsters aren't expert climbers, but some enjoy:
- Cork bark
- Low platforms
- Bridges
Avoid dangerous heights.
Chewing
Provide:
- Apple wood sticks
- Willow sticks
- Safe wooden toys
- Cardboard tubes
Hamster teeth grow continuously.
Food and Diet
Staple Food
Use a high-quality hamster food mix appropriate to the species.
Look for:
- Variety of grains
- Seeds
- Protein sources
Fresh Foods
Offer small amounts of:
Vegetables:
- Broccoli
- Cucumber
- Bell pepper
- Carrot (small amounts)
Protein:
- Mealworms
- Plain cooked chicken
- Plain cooked egg
Occasional fruits:
- Apple
- Blueberries
- Strawberry
Avoid
- Onion
- Garlic
- Chocolate
- Alcohol
- Caffeine
- Sugary foods
- Citrus for some dwarf species
Fresh water should always be available.
Water
Either:
- Water bottle
- Heavy ceramic water bowl
Many owners provide both.
Check daily that bottles are functioning properly.
Temperature and Environment
Ideal room temperature:
- 18–24°C (65–75°F)
Avoid:
- Direct sunlight
- Drafts
- Radiators
- Air conditioning blowing directly onto the cage
Cleaning
A common mistake is over-cleaning.
Daily
- Remove fresh food leftovers.
- Check water.
Weekly
- Spot clean dirty areas.
Deep Cleaning
Usually every few months, depending on enclosure size.
Avoid replacing all bedding at once whenever possible. Retaining some clean old bedding preserves familiar scents and reduces stress.
Handling and Taming
Never
- Wake a sleeping hamster suddenly.
- Grab from above like a predator.
Instead
- Let the hamster approach you.
- Offer treats from your hand.
- Build trust gradually.
Many hamsters become friendly, but some remain more independent.
What a Proper Hamster Setup Typically Contains
A well-equipped enclosure often includes:
✅ Large enclosure (100×50 cm or larger)
✅ 20–40 cm deep bedding
✅ Proper-sized wheel
✅ Large sand bath
✅ Multi-chamber hide
✅ Additional hides
✅ Cork tunnels/logs
✅ Chew toys
✅ Scatter-fed food
✅ Water source
✅ Platforms with safe low heights
✅ Foraging opportunities
✅ Natural enrichment items
Gerbils Are Not Hamsters
One of the biggest mistakes new owners make is caring for gerbils like hamsters. Gerbils are highly social, active, digging animals that must not live alone. A properly cared-for gerbil will spend much of its day digging tunnels, shredding nesting material, exploring, and interacting with its companion.
The most common pet gerbil is the Mongolian Gerbil.
The Most Important Rule: Gerbils Need Companions
Gerbils should generally be kept in:
-
Same-sex pairs
-
Occasionally stable groups established correctly
Best combinations:
-
Two males
-
Two females
Never assume unfamiliar adult gerbils can simply be put together. Introductions often require a "split cage" method.
A lone gerbil can suffer from stress, boredom, and lack of social interaction.
Proper Enclosure Size
Gerbils need lots of uninterrupted floor space and deep bedding.
Minimum
For a pair:
-
Around 100 cm × 40 cm floor space (larger is better)
Better
-
100–120 cm long enclosure
-
Deep bedding area throughout
Many experienced owners use:
-
Large aquariums
-
Glass tanks
-
Front-opening terrariums
Why Tanks Work Best
Gerbils dig extensively and throw bedding everywhere.
Good options:
-
Glass aquariums
-
Glass terrariums
-
Large DIY enclosures
Avoid:
-
Tiny cages
-
Small starter habitats
-
Enclosures with inadequate bedding depth
Bedding: Extremely Important
Deep bedding is essential.
Depth
Minimum:
-
20 cm (8 inches)
Better:
-
30–40+ cm (12–16+ inches)
Gerbils build complex tunnel systems.
Good Bedding Materials
Mixing materials often works best.
Examples:
-
Unscented paper bedding
-
Aspen shavings
-
Hemp bedding
-
Timothy hay
-
Orchard grass hay
The mixture helps tunnels hold their shape.
Avoid
-
Cedar bedding
-
Scented bedding
-
Dusty bedding
-
Cotton fluff nesting material
A Proper Gerbil Setup
A good enclosure usually includes:
✅ Deep bedding
✅ Large wheel
✅ Sand bath
✅ Multiple hides
✅ Chew items
✅ Foraging opportunities
✅ Hay mixed into bedding
✅ Water source
✅ Companion gerbil
Wheel Requirements
Gerbils run a lot.
Wheel Size
Recommended:
-
At least 20–28 cm (8–11 inches)
Larger is often better.
Wheel Type
Use:
-
Solid running surface
Avoid:
-
Wire wheels
-
Mesh wheels
These can injure feet and tails.
Sand Bath
Gerbils naturally groom in sand.
Safe Sand
Use:
-
Reptile sand without calcium additives
-
Clean baked play sand
Avoid
-
Chinchilla dust
-
Dust baths
Dust can cause respiratory problems.
Chewing Needs
Gerbil teeth grow continuously.
Provide plenty of safe chew materials:
-
Cardboard
-
Untreated wood
-
Willow sticks
-
Apple wood sticks
-
Safe wooden toys
Expect cardboard items to be destroyed quickly.
That is normal and healthy.
Hides and Nesting Areas
Provide:
-
Wooden houses
-
Cork tunnels
-
Platforms
-
Nesting areas
However, many gerbils prefer building their own nests inside bedding tunnels.
Enrichment
Gerbils are intelligent and active.
Good enrichment includes:
Digging
Deep bedding is the most important enrichment.
Foraging
Scatter feed instead of always using a bowl.
Hide food:
-
In bedding
-
Inside cardboard tubes
-
Inside paper parcels
Shredding
Provide:
-
Toilet paper
-
Plain tissues
-
Cardboard
Gerbils enjoy converting these into nesting material.
Food and Nutrition
Staple Diet
Use a quality gerbil food mix or pellet designed for gerbils.
Look for:
-
Seeds
-
Grains
-
Appropriate protein sources
Fresh Foods
Offer small amounts of:
Vegetables:
-
Broccoli
-
Bell pepper
-
Cucumber
-
Carrot
Occasionally:
-
Leafy greens
Protein Sources
Sometimes offer:
-
Mealworms
-
Small amounts of cooked egg
-
Plain cooked chicken
Treats
Occasionally:
-
Pumpkin seeds
-
Sunflower seeds
-
Small fruit pieces
Treats should be limited.
Avoid
-
Chocolate
-
Onion
-
Garlic
-
Alcohol
-
Caffeine
-
Sugary foods
Water
Provide fresh water at all times.
Most owners use:
-
Water bottles
Check daily to ensure the bottle is working properly.
Temperature
Ideal temperatures:
-
Approximately 18–24°C (65–75°F)
Avoid:
-
Direct sunlight
-
Drafts
-
Excessive heat
Gerbils tolerate cool temperatures better than overheating.
Cleaning
A common mistake is cleaning too much.
Gerbils rely heavily on scent.
Daily
-
Remove spoiled fresh foods.
-
Check water.
Weekly
-
Spot clean dirty areas if needed.
Deep Cleaning
Only when necessary.
Removing all bedding at once can be stressful and may contribute to territorial behavior.
Keep some clean old bedding when refreshing the enclosure.
Handling and Taming
Never
-
Grab by the tail.
A gerbil's tail skin can be seriously injured.
Instead
-
Scoop from underneath.
-
Allow them to climb onto your hands.
-
Use treats to build trust.
Most gerbils become quite curious and friendly with patience.
Health Monitoring
Watch for:
-
Weight loss
-
Lethargy
-
Labored breathing
-
Diarrhea
-
Injuries
-
Overgrown teeth
-
Persistent scratching
Seek an exotic-animal veterinarian if problems arise.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
❌ Keeping a single gerbil
❌ Tiny cages
❌ Insufficient bedding depth
❌ No sand bath
❌ Small wheels
❌ Cotton nesting fluff
❌ Wire wheels
❌ Frequent full cage clean-outs
❌ Lifting by the tail
Example "Gold Standard" Gerbil Setup
For a pair of gerbils:
-
100–120 cm long enclosure
-
30–40+ cm deep mixed bedding
-
Large solid wheel
-
Permanent sand bath
-
Multiple hides
-
Hay mixed through bedding
-
Plenty of cardboard and wood to chew
-
Scatter-fed diet
-
Daily opportunities to dig, forage, shred, and explore
The key to excellent gerbil care is remembering that gerbils are social burrowing animals. The deepest bedding possible, a compatible companion, opportunities to chew and dig, and a large enclosure will do more for their welfare than almost any toy sold in a pet shop.
Our journey began with a realisation: much of the advice given by pet shops can be fundamentally wrong. Through diligent research and personal experience with hamsters, gerbils, and a leopard gecko, we've encountered the shocking reality of widespread misinformation. It's incredibly upsetting to see how many well-meaning pet owners unknowingly provide incorrect care because they've been fed lies. At Paws in Trusted Hands, we are committed to changing this narrative. We want to empower you with accurate, ethical information to ensure the best possible lives for all animals. Your pet's well-being is our priority, and we are here to guide you every step of the way.
Complete Guide to Proper Leopard Gecko Care
The Leopard Gecko is a terrestrial desert-edge lizard native to parts of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and surrounding regions. They can live 15–20+ years, and some exceed 25 years with excellent care, making them a long-term commitment.
While leopard geckos are often marketed as beginner reptiles, proper care requires providing suitable heating, hides, nutrition, and environmental enrichment.
Quick Care Summary
An adult leopard gecko needs:
✅ A properly sized enclosure
✅ A warm side and cool side (temperature gradient)
✅ At least three hides
✅ Safe substrate
✅ Appropriate heating
✅ Quality diet of live insects
✅ Calcium and vitamin supplementation
✅ Fresh water
✅ Enrichment and climbing opportunities
✅ Regular health monitoring
Housing
Enclosure Size
Juveniles
-
20-gallon long (75 L) minimum
Adults
-
40-gallon breeder (about 90 × 45 × 45 cm) minimum
Better
-
120 × 60 × 60 cm or larger
Leopard geckos use more space than many people realize and benefit from larger, enriched habitats.
Temperature: The Most Important Factor
Leopard geckos regulate their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas.
Your enclosure should have a thermal gradient.
Warm Side
Surface temperature:
-
31–35°C (88–95°F)
Cool Side
Ambient temperature:
-
22–27°C (72–80°F)
Night Temperatures
Generally:
-
18–24°C (65–75°F)
A slight nighttime drop is normal.
Heating
Best Options
-
Halogen heat lamp
-
Deep heat projector
Controlled by a thermostat.
Avoid
-
Hot rocks
-
Unregulated heat sources
Hot rocks frequently cause burns.
UVB Lighting
Older care guides often claimed leopard geckos don't need UVB.
Current husbandry practices increasingly support providing low-level UVB.
Benefits may include:
-
More natural behavior
-
Improved vitamin D synthesis
-
Better overall welfare
A low-output UVB tube is generally preferred over compact bulbs.
Hides
Every leopard gecko should have at least three hides.
Warm Hide
Located on the warm side.
Used for digestion and thermoregulation.
Cool Hide
Located on the cool side.
Used when the gecko wants lower temperatures.
Humid Hide
One of the most important components.
Contains damp moss, soil, or paper towel.
Helps with:
-
Shedding
-
Hydration
-
Skin health
Substrate
Recommended
Many keepers successfully use:
-
Soil/sand mixes formulated for reptiles
-
Naturalistic substrates
-
Bioactive setups
Beginner-Friendly
-
Slate tile
-
Textured stone tile
-
Paper towel (especially for quarantine)
Avoid
-
Calcium sand
-
Loose substrates marketed as edible
-
Carpet substrates that trap bacteria
-
Sharp gravel
The concern with loose substrate is less about the substrate itself and more about poor husbandry, dehydration, illness, and inappropriate materials.
Water
Provide fresh water at all times.
Use:
-
Shallow water dish
Change water daily.
Diet
Leopard geckos are insectivores.
They require live insects.
Staple Feeders
Excellent staples include:
-
Crickets
-
Dubia roaches
-
Locusts (where available)
Supplemental Feeders
Occasionally:
-
Mealworms
-
Silkworms
-
Black soldier fly larvae
-
Hornworms
Treat Feeders
Only occasionally:
-
Waxworms
-
Butterworms
These are high in fat.
Gut Loading
Feed insects nutritious foods before offering them to your gecko.
Good gut-load foods include:
-
Leafy greens
-
Squash
-
Commercial insect diets
A healthy feeder insect is more nutritious.
Calcium and Vitamins
Supplementation is essential.
Typical approach:
Calcium
Dust feeders regularly.
Multivitamin
Use according to product directions.
Calcium Dish
Many keepers provide a small dish of plain calcium carbonate in the enclosure.
Improper supplementation can contribute to serious conditions such as Metabolic Bone Disease.
Feeding Schedule
Hatchlings
Daily.
Juveniles
Usually every day.
Adults
Generally:
-
Every 2–4 days
Exact amounts depend on age, weight, and body condition.
Enrichment
Leopard geckos are more active and curious than many people expect.
Provide:
-
Rocks
-
Branches
-
Cork bark
-
Elevated basking spots
-
Tunnels
-
Multiple textures
A cluttered enclosure often makes geckos feel more secure.
Handling
Leopard geckos are often tolerant of handling.
Never
-
Grab suddenly
-
Chase around the enclosure
-
Pull on the tail
Leopard geckos can drop their tails as a defense mechanism.
This is called tail autotomy.
Building Trust
-
Move slowly
-
Allow the gecko to approach
-
Support the entire body
-
Keep sessions short initially
Shedding
Healthy geckos shed regularly.
Signs of trouble include retained shed around:
-
Toes
-
Eyes
-
Tail tip
A humid hide helps prevent most shedding issues.
Monitoring Health
A healthy leopard gecko generally:
-
Eats regularly
-
Maintains body weight
-
Has clear eyes
-
Moves normally
-
Produces normal droppings
-
Stores fat in its tail
Common Health Problems
Watch for:
-
Weight loss
-
Refusal to eat
-
Sunken eyes
-
Stuck shed
-
Swollen joints
-
Tremors
-
Tail thinning
-
Mouth abnormalities
These can indicate illness and warrant evaluation by a reptile veterinarian.
Cleaning
Daily
-
Remove waste
-
Refresh water
-
Check temperatures
Regularly
-
Clean dishes
-
Replace soiled substrate
Deep Cleaning
As needed depending on enclosure type.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
❌ Tiny enclosures
❌ No thermostat
❌ Hot rocks
❌ Only one hide
❌ No humid hide
❌ Poor supplementation
❌ Feeding only mealworms
❌ Bare, empty enclosures
❌ Incorrect temperatures
❌ Ignoring UVB entirely
Example of a Well-Designed Adult Leopard Gecko Setup
A high-quality setup might include:
-
120 × 60 × 60 cm enclosure
-
Thermostat-controlled heat source
-
Warm side around 32–35°C
-
Cool side around 22–27°C
-
Low-level UVB lighting
-
Warm hide
-
Cool hide
-
Humid hide
-
Naturalistic substrate
-
Rocks and climbing structures
-
Water dish
-
Gut-loaded insects
-
Calcium and vitamin supplementation
The most important factors for long-term success are proper temperatures, a humid hide, a varied insect diet, appropriate supplementation, and enough space to allow natural behaviors. Many leopard gecko health issues can be traced back to problems with one of those core husbandry elements.
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